Ezemvelo used to be known as the Natal Parks Board and a number of famous conservation leaders such as Ian Player worked for them. They ran a tough and very military style system. They got results. The work of NPB in the Hluhluwe game reserve brought the white and black rhino back from the edge of extinction. One day I will talk about the plight of rhinos in South Africa today but that is a sad story for another post.
Ezemvelo now faces many new tough fights as well as trying to save the rhino again. Poaching of animals for traditional healing is rife in some parks, they have to find funds to help local communities at a time when the government has pulled a large amount of funding and they have to provide for the new style of eco-tourist. People used to be happy with a piece of dirt on which to pitch their tent and a day spent swimming at the beach or driving around the park. Now there is big demand for eco-walks, 4x4 experiences and cultural experiences. This is all a good thing and will provide much needed funds. However the start infrastructure needs to be put in place and that in itself is causing many issues.
A section of the land owned by Ezemvelo was given over to a tribal authority known as Isimangaliso. In a first for SA Ezemvelo still manages the Wildlife side on a 90 year lease but the tribal authority runs the camps, the gates and general state of the park. It has worked to a degree and will certainly be a basis for land redistribution or land claims for other parks in this country.
Favourite Parks Top 3
1. Hluhluwe - Imfolozi: I love this park. Okay the main reason is that the side entrance to the park is just over an hours drive from my house. You can use a Wild Card or Rhino Card(currently being phased out but a new one should take it's place) and I highly recommend that you do. Entrance to HI was R85 per adult and R40 per child on our last visit. A family Wild Card is now R725 for all clusters for the year. This is currently one of the most expensive parks in the country. If you are going to stay over the Imfolozi side is much cheaper. A two bed safari tent starts at R770 per night. They are really very nice. NOTE: Ezemvelo charges per person generally there is no base rate as is found in SANPARKS. A bush lodge in Hluhluwe starts at R4800 per night for two people but will cost around R550 more with each extra person. There is no camping in this reserve. Lunch at Hilltop looking out over the vally is a great experience.
2. Didma- I have a soft spot for this place as this is where Andrew and I tied the knot 7 years ago. Spectacular surroundings and buildings that really blend into the mountains. It really is a lovely wedding spot as proved by the numbers of couples that get married there. It's best to wait until a few weeks before you want to go with this resort as they will release rooms held for weddings two or three weeks before the date. There are some fantastic hikes in the area with incredible views of the Drakensberg. Rooms are R800 for two and there are family rooms available. Cathedral Peak Hotel is next door and you can feel smug about how much better your room and view are and that you are paying a lot less then the guests at the hotel. Camping is available.
3. Royal Natal - this place has the most incredible hiking in the Drakensberg. You can take a one hour gentle stroll to a serious multi-day hike all starting from this spot. The hotel was abandoned many years ago which is really sad. You can see the beauty of the buildings in the ruins. I still hope that one day they will bring it back to its former glories. Until then this is a reserve where you need to bring everything along. No restaurant and the gates close at 6pm in summer and earlier in winter. However this park has the number 1 campsite in the country according to Go magazine readers and I totally agree. Lush green grass, huge stands, lovely braai spots at each site, towering trees for shade, spotless ablutions and of course you are surrounded by the mountains. It really doesn't get any better. I just wish they had a pool in the camp but you can of course swim in the nearby streams if you can brave the cold. Camping starts at R285 for two people. A bargain by Ezemvelo standards.
The not so great 3
1. Sodwana- hell on earth is this campsite in season. They always overbook it to try and make as much money as possible. Campsites are not allocated. You end up in tent city with a group of drunk people singing at the tops of their voices nearby and a major hike to the nearest crowded and dirty ablutions. Every school holiday is in season for this spot. Every public holiday is the same. Don't do it. I promise you will regret every minute. If you have to stay here take a few days off work and pull the kids from school. The queue just to get in the gate takes upwards of an hour. A large part of this is thanks to the park being run by Isimangaliso. Your card might get you in for free but every person in the car has to pay a R5 community levy per day. Sorting this out and filling in their very long forms takes ages in a normal day. The website no longer lists a price for camping so you would have to phone and enquire.
2. Cape Vidal- don't get me wrong I love the beach here and the camp sites are lovely( as long you ignore the monkeys trying to constantly steal your food and the hot water issues if the site is even vaguely full). Game drives will reward you with wonderful birding and sightings of rhino. However I can't look past the R420 starting cost for camping. If you want one of the bigger and nicer sites the prices start at R840 for two people....TO CAMP. I am sorry but that is just a rip off.
3. uMkhuze- I should probably go back to this reserve at some point and give it another try. My last visit was four years ago and I hated the place. The bush was empty. The animals we did see were very easily spooked ( a sign of possible hunting in the area). The chalets needed updating and cleaning. The guy staying in the chalet next to ours had been brought in to try and resolve staff issues in the reserve. They all really had a F^%& you type of attitude. Picnic tables in the reserve were broken and the whole place had an air of neglect. Hopefully things have changed but I have read a number of articles about poaching in the reserve with the help of staff recently so I am not sure I want to go back. Two bed rest hut with communal ablutions start at R410.
Years ago I read a book that stated that people who work in conservation will never be rich but they will have experiences beyond the dreams of others. Sadly I think a number of people are trying to get as much money as possible out of our natural heritage now. They are no longer in the game for the love of the bush. Personally I think that is very sad.
Some pics:)
A stream near Didima
The chalets at Didima
Ewan chasing Guinea Fowl at Royal Natal. He was 8 months old and determine to catch one.
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