I is for Ixopo

"There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hills are grass-covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it." Alan Paton

I haven't ever spent a holiday in Ixopo but I have run cross country all over it's hills and for a few years driving through the village meant that I was almost home.

I spent 9 years of my life in a little town called Harding about 1 hour from Ixopo. I was five years old when we moved there and to me those green rolling hills still mean home. I can't get used to the brown northern interior and I doubt I ever will.

During the time I lived there our country was going through a great change. The area is the border between the Xhosa and the Zulu tribal lands. There was a lot of violence and bloodshed as the whole country struggled towards a new tomorrow. This area saw a large amount of that blood for such a small place. One year there where five people dead before breakfast on Christmas morning.

We had to drive past Ixopo on our way home from boarding school and for many years all the vehicles had to travel in convoy with an armed military presence. I had to travel with a child's ID book to be allowed to travel along that road. We passed through the border of the old Transkei. Everybody had to leave their cars and be stamped through.

I will have to try and explain to my son one day what a different world we lived in. The old border buildings still exist but are now market places.

The house we lived in was burnt to the ground and broken into a number of times. Luckily as a family we were never home when it happened. Once they did try to break in while we slept but couldn't get through the burglar bars.

I guess for all those reasons I have a love hate relationship with the area.

It is undeniably lovely. The area is forested or green rolling pasture. Old churches make fantastic spots to visit and it is now becoming a popular spot for Durbanites to head to for a break.

The Buddhist Retreat which does cater for all religions has been a popular place to get away from the world and listen to your inner voice for many years. I do still want to go on a yoga retreat there and maybe next year I will finally get my butt into gear and get there. It really looks so relaxing.

If you would just like to stay in the area for a weekend and explore then the best spot is the Kings Grant. Some of the buildings used to form a Catholic Mission and they really are magnificent. Great place to call home for the weekend. It is also really popular for country weddings.

A popular activity is the Paton Express a train that runs from Ixopo to Caribrook that was immortalised in Paton's book Cry the Beloved Country.

Oh and it is compulsory that you read the book to get a better understanding of the area before you arrive.





The area has a turbulent past but it has moved forward and now plays host to a lovely weekend retreat. I still hated running up and down all those hills though:)